Subtly Awesome – Interview Attire.

Having just completed a couple of rounds of interviews, I thought I’d do a quick post on proper attire. Conventional wisdom here is to dress for one level above the job that you want. This can be tricky though, so really tailor it to the job/firm that you’re applying to.

This was brought up in the power jeans article, in that some companies actually frown on suiting up for an interview. In an article over at Wetfeet, the author actually had a pretty solid suggestion if it’s local: go stalker and camp out at the office to see what the majority of the workers there are wearing.

I won’t tackle the outliers, and will instead focus on the more typical business environment.

The general idea is to strike a balance between not looking like everybody else, but also not looking like you’re trying too hard. Your appearance undoubtedly plays a large role in you landing that job (or else a dress code wouldn’t even be in the equation), so showing that you possess some taste and the ability to not be a lemming could go far. The interviewer may not jot down “killer suit & tie combo”, but subconsciously you’ve already made an impression – everybody likes pretty things.

The Interview Suit

A few comments:

- Do not wear a black suit
- Steer clear from pinstripes (a subtle chalk-stripe is ok)
- Go for darker colors

This leaves you with a dark grey or charcoal grey suit. This is one place you do NOT want to stand out. Let the fit of your suit and the shirt & tie combo do the talking.

Speaking of your shirt and tie combination:

- Stray away from french cuff shirts; a button cuff is more subtle
- No contrast shirts with the white collars
- Color is fine (in fact encouraged), just nothing that is blindingly bright; as with tequila, moderation is key

Business Casual Interviews

The first interview was labeled as business casual, with suits being optional. But, knowing the culture and the reputation as a firm, there was no way I was going in sans-suit. But, the key is to not overdue it. There’s a reason they said business casual.

I knew the majority of guys would opt for khakis (pleated) and a white or blue shirt with a gold tie. Or, khakis, white or blue shirt, and blue blazer.

My thinking is that I wanted to distinguish myself from the crowd, but not in a “hey, look at me” sort of way. The idea is to look different, but in a good, and almost more importantly, appropriate way. So, I decided to go with a suit but ditch the tie, and pair it with a nice sweater with a button down underneath.

I opted for a dark charcoal modern suit from Banana. A reasonably priced suit with a nice modern fit (the tailor was amazed how well it fit off the rack). I next added a dark navy, fine merino wool sweater, over a grey button down. The look was modern, and put together.

Arriving at interview day I was surprised to see that 50% of us were in suits (it was a group session), while the rest were exactly how I had envisioned them.

If you don’t own an interview suit, then nice trousers and a tie will go a long way. Just avoid the standard khaki + white/blue shirt uniform. You want to show your prospective employers that you can take the rules they’ve given you and appropriately make it your own.

Business Formal

For round 2, the dress code was business formal. This means suit up. I had the same motivation here, stand out, but in a good way. I knew that the majority of guys would be in charcoal suits with either a blue or white shirt, and undoubtedly with a gold tie. There was no way I was going to look like a 60 year old Republican Senator. I’m young and cool, and this is a big f-ing deal, so I needed something suitably cool.

This was a tough selection for me, because I knew what I wanted but the stores didn’t have exactly it. I ended up settling on a purple and white micro-check shirt (subtle thin purple lines), with a point collar, and paired it with a thin beautiful royal purple tie. I recycled my grey suit from the first interview.

I haven’t touched on collar choices, but go with a point or a spread collar for an occasion like this. This means avoid the classic button down collar. Historically button-down collars are more for casual wear, but regardless it is visually more appealing to have a nice point collar.

Take home: when going with a suit, it’s OK to go with a nice pattern shirt. Pair it with a tie in the same color family and you’ve got a very sharp combination.

Remember, it is your goal to be attractive to the company. Both from an intellectual standpoint (which your resume already provided) and a physical standpoint (why it isn’t a phone interview). So, put some thought into what you’re putting on.

Oh, and the combination of the patterned shirt + solid tie looked awesome. Heading to the airport that afternoon the crosswalk dude (yes, it was a dude…bite me), and the metal detector lady both complimented me on how I looked. And if that’s not success, I don’t know what is.

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Outerwear Sales: Banana Republic & M+O.

Two new sales on outerwear from Banana Republic and Martin+OSA that I thought you should be made aware of. It’s getting colder out there (if it isn’t already butt-freezing where you’re at), so take advantage if you can.

First up, Banana Republic. They’ve sort of fallen out of favor with me, because I’ve seen a decline in their fit and quality. Occasionally though I’ve found some pieces that I really like (specifically their pants).

The pickings were slim for their outerwear, but I did find two nice overcoats, which are items that are really easy to overspend on. These from BR are priced incredibly reasonably, so you need not shell out too much cabbage. I can see those in colder climates relying upon overcoats more than us in the South, but I think I may give one a go this season.

Banana Republic Carcoat
I love camel colored overcoats. This one seems to be well thought out with a modern fit (not too bulky, slightly slim and tapered). This will help you to avoid the bulk even when layered over a suit or sweater. Admittedly, this photo isn’t very flattering, but click the link and you’ll see a picture of the black coat which gives you a better idea of the fit (they didn’t have a zoomed version of the black).

Plus, at $157 you can’t beat the price.

BR Moleskin Topcoat
This coat is a bit more casual than the previous overcoat, but I think it strikes a nice masculine tone. Incidentally, moleskin is just a heavy cotton weave that is known to be durable yet soft. I had a moleskin jacket from JCrew for years that I just wore to the bone. Definitely the perfect casual jacket fabric.

The only concern I have with this coat is the shape around the midsection. It seems slightly bulky, so it may need to be taken in by a tailor. But again, at $161 for a heavy-ish overcoat, you’ll have enough coin to drop on getting it tailored.

M+O Peacoat
I’ve already addresses some of M+Os coats previously, but here’s a new one – a wool peacoat. I’ve always liked peacoats, and not just because the name makes me giggle every time, I’ve just never seen one that looks great. They always are a bit too boxy. This particular coat appears to do the deed properly. Nice and modern with a slim silhouette.

Yesterday, I saw a guy sporting a peacoat with a similar modern fit with dark jeans and it looks really good. This may be my next purchase.

MO utility blazer
I wrote about this coat previously, though it was cheaper then. Here’s what I said:

A more casual take on the wool blazer. It has a nice modern, slim silhouette, yet keeps it simple and non-fussy (it has zippers). The perfect missing link towards the sport coat and jeans look for those slightly skittish of taking that leap. It will feel like a normal wool coat, but it has a very clean and stylish look to it. And it has functional buttons at the cuffs! Something typically only higher-end coats have.

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Power Jeans.

Reader Ward clued me in on this article from the Wall Street Journal about the acceptability of jeans in previously unlikely places, like the White House.

It’s an interesting read though don’t form any conclusions based on the pictures. Photos of Nicolas Sarkozy in stone washed Levi’s, Medvedev in decent jeans but an ill-fitting sport coat (described as “fine” within the article), and Obama in dad jeans all send the wrong message. It appears as though whomever chose the photos didn’t bother to read the actual article.

I found this part interesting regarding the acceptability of jeans, and the shunning of a typical suit, for a job interview:

We have Steve Jobs to thank for today’s power jeans. His uniform of Levi’s 501s and a black turtleneck was synonymous with innovation in the ’90s; now, in the tech world, dressy pants can be viewed with suspicion. “When someone shows up to an interview or meeting in anything other than jeans, it shows inexperience and a lack of confidence,” says Andrew Dumont, vice president of marketing for text-messaging company Tatango.

Though jeans may be commonplace in a variety of work places, the author rightly points to this mantra for judging their acceptability:

Power jeans may best be left to the executives in mixed-rank groups. Being a junior person wearing jeans in a room full of pinstripes could spell “youthful blunder.” Perhaps the best rule is that of the high-priced boutique: If you have to ask, you can’t afford to wear them.

PG has always supported the notion that a pair of clean, slim, and dark modern jeans are suitable for a wide range of occasions. Though, truthfully I’ve never thought of it as a “power” item, perhaps I was wrong.

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Shed the Business Casual Uniform.

I recently drove through downtown during lunch time and it was like a rally for Office Max workers on the streets. I saw so many pleated khaki pants, blue button downs, and white undershirts that I wanted to stop and ask if somebody could help me with my printer cartridge.

When it comes to business casual, I really don’t get the drabness, because it’s so easy to make it look cool. Say it with me: just because others dress like poop doesn’t mean that you have to follow suit.

I know PG has highlighted weekend/night wear more frequently, because looking cool when you go out is important. But, you’re in your office clothes 40+ hrs/week. It’s your life. You should look good while you’re banking it.

Here are 10 steps to help you shed the business casual uniform. I’ll just highlight the basics, reminiscent of the Fit Rules of yore, and save the specific examples of work-wear outfits for later posts, similar to what I’ve done with going out outfits the past couple of weeks.

Step 1: Update your work chinos.
Opt for a modern fit to your trousers. This means no pleats. The pants should hit just below your waist, not ride up high, and there shouldn’t be an excess of fabric either in the crotch or at the bottom of the pant leg. The pants should fit you precisely.

For more in-depth rules, review the previous pant fit post.

Step 2: Treat khaki (the color) as a suggestion, not the rule.
Try a different color. Navy blues look especially good, especially when paired with a richly colored brown pair of shoe. But be cautious with color chinos, they lose their hue fairly rapidly. Once they begin to fade, it’s time to retire them to weekend duty.

Step 3: Give your ace a break.
It’s good to rest your starter and let the others in your rotation pick up some slack. So occasionally ditch the chinos, and opt for some tropical wool or cotton trousers. The different texture and finish of the fabric will help to liven things up and (if you execute properly) will instantly set you aside from your Dockers loving coworkers.

Step 4: Colors that don’t rhyme with “igloo” for a thousand.
I know guys like blue, and all the variants of the shade. But, branch out! Try the whole color spectrum, just as long as you keep it season-appropriate. No pastels when it’s cold out.

Step 5: Beware thy undershirt.
I’ve written about this previously, but an undershirt is an undershirt. We don’t need to see it, unless you want us to. And in that case give us something cool to look at. Not a plain white, Hanes tshirt. Opt for a V-neck, or a colored crew neck (if your office environment allows for it) with a nice firm elastic band. Or, go with a ‘beater, so that nothing shows.

Step 6: Embrace a pattern.
Solid shirts are good, but can get boring. Nothing livens up an outfit like a quality patterned shirt. You need not go overboard, you are after all supposed to dress more conservatively, but there’s still some room for style. Try either a subtle stripe, or a nice check. You can’t go wrong.

Step 7: Throw on a tie.
Sure, it’s business casual, but a tie doesn’t inherently mean it’s formal (as noted by the recent jeans w/ tie post). A modern outfit, with a modern tie, is refreshing to see in the great fluorescent jungle. Keep it slim (but not pencil thin), with a very subtle pattern and pair it with Step 6 and you’ll be golden.

Step 8: Put something good on your feet.
Casual sneakers, or larger rubbery-soled shoes are not acceptable. However, you don’t have to go with wafer-thin, leather soles of formal dress shoes. Instead, opt for something in between, yet still stylish and modern. Go ahead and splurge, and get 2-3 shoes that you can rotate in and out. Then gradually phase in some newer ones as you go to ensure consistently stylish kicks.

Step 9: Bluetooth headset?
No.

Step 10: A visible Blackberry holster is unacceptable.
Go ahead and suffer the uncomfortableness that is a bulky cellphone in your pocket, so we don’t have to suffer by looking at your brick of a cellphone strapped to your belt loop. You have 4 large pockets, if need be put it in your non-wallet back pocket.

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Pick-a-Outfit: JCrew Part III.

I’ve been struggling with putting together the last outfit from JCrew. It’s supposed to be the dressiest outfit, which is an issue because JCrew has moved to the more casual/traditional end of the style spectrum. They execute this particular brand of style very well, but it’s also not a polished and shiny look (unless you go with their suiting), which may not go as well with the typical uniform seen in a super trendy club-type atmosphere that some may frequent.

However, it’s my job to give you outfit ideas that are different and cool. Sure, you can throw on a suit or dress trousers and a dress shirt, but what if you want something with a bit more style?

The outfit below would get me in to just about anywhere I want to go: 5-star restaurant, new trendy bar, etc. I wouldn’t feel the least bit uncomfortable with how I’m dressed. But, in Texas we’re a little bit more laid-back than elsewhere, so this may not be a universal truth. Plus, my mood has been more of a masculine, vintage coolness which this outfit definitely falls into.

I did cheat a little bit on this particular outfit by taking the articles from last time’s outfit, and just throwing in the sport coat below. But, this serves to illustrate an important point: versatility of your wardrobe. I know most guys don’t have, or don’t want, to spend a ton of money on clothes (hence PG not highlighting high fashion designers). However, you still want to look good. So, the key is to buy a few quality items that fit you well, but also can transition to many different events by just swapping out (or adding) elements.

As mentioned previously, the key to properly pulling off sport coat and jeans is to keep the look modern. This is especially true when the sport coat is made out of a material with traditional and stodgy connotations that tweed tends to elicit. So, you must be extra vigilant on the fit and pairing.

Fear not, because the fit of this sport coat is perfectly modern. It’s cut high with a contoured torso. It isn’t like you went to your dad’s closet and grabbed one of his wool sport coats.

As a refresher, I’ve posted the previous outfit below. The difference is that you want the shirt to be slightly more pressed than the wrinkly version I advocated for that outfit. Now, you’re going for a cleaner look, so your shirt should reflect that.

Here, you can opt for the slightly loosened tie with the top button unbuttoned, or you can go with it knotted tightly. This is definitely personal preference.

The combination of the plaid, tweed sport coat, and wool tie is by itself very professorial, which isn’t inherently cool (unless you are in fact a professor). The kicker really is in the execution: you’ve got a very modern cut to the sport coat, tie, and shirt, which all ratchets the look into the stylish zone.

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Pick-a-Outfit: BR Part III.

The previous parts of this series tackled a casual night out, followed by a slightly dressier occasion. Today will be selecting an outfit for a trendy club/lounge or a nice restaurant.

Here is your chance to show a little bit of your style. Previously, it’s been a bit more subtle, yet the outfits maintained a good sense of quality style. Now, under the right type of occasion, you can (and should) dress it up.

That may sound dramatic, especially after viewing the outfit, but the idea is to break out of your normal mode of dressing down for an occasion, and instead rise to the occasion. The outfit is still subtle, but it’s stylish in the pieces selected and the fit of it all.

To the outfit…

Vest
The order is a bit different this time, as I’m starting with a top. We’re going with a vest, because vests are just flat out cool. They look good on just about any body type. The key, as usual, is to ensure that it fits. This is particularly important with a vest – if it looks boxy and not form-fitting then you’ve completely lost all the effect you would have gained.

Most vests (as is the one below) have a silk backing, which isn’t difficult for a tailor to take in. So, make sure it fits in the shoulders, and then (if need be) take it into a tailor to get the torso cinched in.

This vest is just a medium grey in color with a subtle pattern to the wool.

As with all vests, do not button the last button.

Pants
I’m going with dress trousers here. No more jeans (though, this entire outfit could go with an exceptionally good looking pair of jeans). This was a tough choice, so I broke it down into two options.

The first choice is a navy blue pinstripe pant. It’s my first choice because of the color coordination with the vest: the deep navy, and the light grey should go very well together. Also, I think the pinstripe will add an extra dash of style to the the outfit. However, I’m aware that some may feel put off by the pinstripe, but it the trousers have only a subtle stripe, which helps take away some of the showiness.

An alternative would be to go with the pants below. They’re a standard dark charcoal suit trousers. I’d prefer a slightly better fit (i.e. slimmer), but it’ll have to do. I chose dark charcoal again to contrast with the medium/light of the vest. The dark grey of the trousers should match very well with the grey of the vest.

The contrast is important so it doesn’t look like you came from wearing a 3-piece suit. This is not to say that 3-piece suits are bad, because I love them. The thing is that if you look like you’re wearing a 3-piece, you might as well be wearing one. With this outfit, nobody thinks you just took your suit jacket off and untied your tie. It appears deliberately stylish.

Shirt
To balance the contrasting shades and patterns of the vest and the trousers, I selected a solid dress shirt in a neutral color (though I kept the color in the same general family: blues & greys). The shirt should just be there. Not contributing too much other than a clean backdrop for the rest of the outfit.

Since your vest is form fitting, it’s doubly important that your shirt be as well. If the shirt doesn’t fit as well as your vest you’ll get bunching of the shirt under the vest. Take special notice of the armholes of the vest, because this is the most likely area where you’ll run into trouble.

Shoes
The shoes must of course match the occasion. So, a dressier shoe was chosen to complement the sleek and modern outfit. A longer nose, and a thin sole (though I wish it were slightly thinner), helps to tie together the entire outfit. It’s cool, clean, and stylish.

Bottom Line

Vest: $99
Pants: $150
Shirt: $80
Shoes: $140

Total: $469.

Phew…way off budget. However, you’ll have a fantastic outfit whose individual pieces are highly versatile and interchangeable.

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