Feb
22
2010
My February Resolution? I’m done with chinos. I’ve said it before, but this time I mean it. I’m going to stop trying to make them look cool, and stop forcing myself into believing I can make them work. It’s just too hard.
I made the decision this morning as I was browsing through M+O’s new offering of chinos and almost got sucked in, again.
Chinos have to fit perfectly. Because of the heft of the fabric there is less room for error with chinos than with jeans. Too baggy and you look WAY slobby. They have to be perfectly slim fitting. But even when they fit perfectly, they still don’t look right. That’s why chinos are so evil.
The problem is that chinos are supposed to fill that weird gap between jeans and trousers. The only problem is that they do it so poorly, you might as well just opt for the other choices.
You always end up looking *too* preppy. Too shiny. While PG strives to look clean and put together, there’s always a hint of attitude thrown in. Even if it’s in the subtle pairing of colors or textures. With chinos, you don’t have that. There’s no grunge, no character. It’s like you stepped right out of a Gap ad. It’s too vanilla.
But, dear reader, you may say “wait, what about those great JCrew outfits in their catalogs?” Lies. All of them. They look fantastic on paper, but in practice it’s almost impossible to pull off without looking like you actually work at JCrew. It’s too contrived.
Chinos are not stylish.
Phew. There. I’ve said it.
Nov
17
2009
Reader Ward clued me in on this article from the Wall Street Journal about the acceptability of jeans in previously unlikely places, like the White House.
It’s an interesting read though don’t form any conclusions based on the pictures. Photos of Nicolas Sarkozy in stone washed Levi’s, Medvedev in decent jeans but an ill-fitting sport coat (described as “fine” within the article), and Obama in dad jeans all send the wrong message. It appears as though whomever chose the photos didn’t bother to read the actual article.
I found this part interesting regarding the acceptability of jeans, and the shunning of a typical suit, for a job interview:
We have Steve Jobs to thank for today’s power jeans. His uniform of Levi’s 501s and a black turtleneck was synonymous with innovation in the ’90s; now, in the tech world, dressy pants can be viewed with suspicion. “When someone shows up to an interview or meeting in anything other than jeans, it shows inexperience and a lack of confidence,” says Andrew Dumont, vice president of marketing for text-messaging company Tatango.
Though jeans may be commonplace in a variety of work places, the author rightly points to this mantra for judging their acceptability:
Power jeans may best be left to the executives in mixed-rank groups. Being a junior person wearing jeans in a room full of pinstripes could spell “youthful blunder.” Perhaps the best rule is that of the high-priced boutique: If you have to ask, you can’t afford to wear them.
PG has always supported the notion that a pair of clean, slim, and dark modern jeans are suitable for a wide range of occasions. Though, truthfully I’ve never thought of it as a “power” item, perhaps I was wrong.
Sep
21
2009
I’ve been struggling with putting together the last outfit from JCrew. It’s supposed to be the dressiest outfit, which is an issue because JCrew has moved to the more casual/traditional end of the style spectrum. They execute this particular brand of style very well, but it’s also not a polished and shiny look (unless you go with their suiting), which may not go as well with the typical uniform seen in a super trendy club-type atmosphere that some may frequent.
However, it’s my job to give you outfit ideas that are different and cool. Sure, you can throw on a suit or dress trousers and a dress shirt, but what if you want something with a bit more style?
The outfit below would get me in to just about anywhere I want to go: 5-star restaurant, new trendy bar, etc. I wouldn’t feel the least bit uncomfortable with how I’m dressed. But, in Texas we’re a little bit more laid-back than elsewhere, so this may not be a universal truth. Plus, my mood has been more of a masculine, vintage coolness which this outfit definitely falls into.
I did cheat a little bit on this particular outfit by taking the articles from last time’s outfit, and just throwing in the sport coat below. But, this serves to illustrate an important point: versatility of your wardrobe. I know most guys don’t have, or don’t want, to spend a ton of money on clothes (hence PG not highlighting high fashion designers). However, you still want to look good. So, the key is to buy a few quality items that fit you well, but also can transition to many different events by just swapping out (or adding) elements.
As mentioned previously, the key to properly pulling off sport coat and jeans is to keep the look modern. This is especially true when the sport coat is made out of a material with traditional and stodgy connotations that tweed tends to elicit. So, you must be extra vigilant on the fit and pairing.
Fear not, because the fit of this sport coat is perfectly modern. It’s cut high with a contoured torso. It isn’t like you went to your dad’s closet and grabbed one of his wool sport coats.
As a refresher, I’ve posted the previous outfit below. The difference is that you want the shirt to be slightly more pressed than the wrinkly version I advocated for that outfit. Now, you’re going for a cleaner look, so your shirt should reflect that.
Here, you can opt for the slightly loosened tie with the top button unbuttoned, or you can go with it knotted tightly. This is definitely personal preference.
The combination of the plaid, tweed sport coat, and wool tie is by itself very professorial, which isn’t inherently cool (unless you are in fact a professor). The kicker really is in the execution: you’ve got a very modern cut to the sport coat, tie, and shirt, which all ratchets the look into the stylish zone.
Sep
16
2009
For the second outfit in this series, I’ve focused on something slightly more trendy than yesterday’s ensemble.
The corresponding outfit from Banana was a simple pair of clean jeans and a button down shirt. We’ll go with something along the same lines, but throw in a tie, just to show you more ways to spruce up an outfit.
Top
Again, I’m going with plaid. I know I went with it for Banana, but it’s gradually becoming Fall (even in Texas it’s gotten cooler), so it’s time to fully embrace the pattern. The difference between this shirt and the previous one from Banana, is that the texture of this shirt will be less fine. These shirts from JCrew have a bit more worn-in, vintage feel to them, which puts in into the more casual realm.
Since, this outfit is designed for a nicer/trendier night out, we’ve got to contrast the casual feel given off by the shirt’s texture with something a bit nicer. So, I’ve chosen a cool wool tie to be paired with the shirt. It’s in the same color family (a grey), giving you a nice modern monochromatic look. Also, not everybody thinks to pair a tie with a plaid shirt, but it is a very cool look (just keep the tie on the solid side).
This tie is slimmer than your traditional business tie, but not pencil-thin. Just enough to add a little modern into your wardrobe. And the wool fabric is very cool and stylish.
The key to pulling this look off is to loosen your tie knot slightly, and unbutton your top button. I thought the latter rule would be self-evident, but apparently it’s not. I was out and saw a guy sporting a 3.25″ rep tie (that’s office width), loosened, with his top button buttoned, all of this with jeans. Don’t be that guy.
You also don’t want to loosen the tie too dramatically. Make sure the knot itself is still tight (with a thin tie like this I just go with a simple four in hand knot), with the circumference of the neck hole being just slightly larger than normal. You don’t want it too tight where it affects the way the top button of the shirt falls open, nor do you want it so loose that it droops there.
Pants
I chose a pair of bootcut denim with a slightly worn wash. For an occasion like this, you definitely want to go with dark denim, but it need not always be a blackish-wash or super clean. It all depends on what you’re pairing it with. And since we’ve got a casual shirt, a nice tie, and nice shoes (below), it’s ok to go with a slightly worn in jean, provided that the fit is still modern, and the jeans are clean.
I chose a bootcut as opposed to a straight leg, because the shoes below are more substantial than the sneakers from yesterday’s outfit. So the slight bit more width you gain in the leg opening, will allow the jean to fall over the shoe a little cleaner.
Shoes
For some reason the Fall selection of JCrew shoes is a bit lacking on the dressier shoes, so my options were limited. However, it does let me go with my old favorite: the wingtip. Don’t be thrown off by the traditional roots of the shoe. Once paired with your modern outfit, the look definitely does not scream office.
Bottom Line
Shirt: $60
Tie: $60
Jeans: $96
Shoes: $165
Total: $381
Over budget again. Oh well, the outfit is the bee’s knees.
Sep
15
2009
Last week I targeted Banana Republic for my outfit selections, so this week I’m moving on to the next mass market retailer: JCrew.
The problem that I foresee with a JCrew-centric outfit is whittling down the myriad of possibilities (I’m a very big fan of their stuff). I don’t think any other mass market store does casual to casual-trendy tops as well as JCrew. Most of their stuff is highly versatile, meaning you can wear the same top to a casual bar that you would to a super trendy restaurant. The key is what you surround the items with.
JCrew is known, especially recently, for fostering some big name designer collaborations. From Red Wings, to Barbour, and now to Thomas Mason, JCrew consistently is on point with their style trends.
I know I know, it sounds like I’m Don Draper for JCrew. But this is all true, and it isn’t all good. I’m not a huge fan of their denim (or pants in general), as I’ve found their fit to be inconsistent, and not exactly of the highest quality. I’ve never owned a sport coat from JCrew that hasn’t lost a button within the first season. Also, I won’t ever purchase socks from them any longer, as the elastic lasts all of 30 seconds.
But, I’ve never had a problem with the quality of their tops, which are almost always well-tailored. It’s classic American style, with a modern twist. Perfect for any PG reader.
And here, dear reader, is a valuable lesson to learn. As you continue to shop, either at mass market stores or boutiques (not just for the woman folk), you’ll find that different designers do your particular body type right. You’ll gravitate to the style, fit and quality that you personally find flattering. I’ve learned that for me, JCrew is the best for shoes (occasionally), shirts, belts, and sweaters.
So, following the same format as before, we’ll move from casual outfit to progressively more trendy/dressier. As usual, the price for the complete outfit should be around $250, though I’ve not come in under budget once.
Shirt
I’ll start with the shirt this time, as I am in love with JCrew’s casual shirts. They have a modern fit to them (slimmer in the torso) as well as modern fabric & prints. My preferred way to wear their shirts is to machine wash and line dry. I like the wrinkles, as it adds a bit of a masculine touch and suits my sense of style perfectly. If I choose to dress it up, I’ll throw a vest or tie on top, and change into dressier pants. They’re incredibly versatile.
For this casual outfit, I chose a light-colored gingham shirt. The faded color of the pattern helps to keep the look casual, especially if you wear it wrinkly and not pressed.
As usual, tuck in the shirt and roll the sleeves.
Pants
Since it’s casual, we’ll go with jeans. I think they JCrew has improved the quality of their denim in recent years, and these have a very modern fit with quality denim. As opposed to the last casual outfit, I’ve chosen a darker pair of jeans this time.
Shoes
Now, I know thus far you may think that the dark jeans and tucked in shirt doesn’t scream casual. Here’s the key: the shoes. I’ve chosen some classic Jack Purcells to help balance the entire outfit. The cool/retro look of the sneakers completely ratchets the outfit down a notch on the dressy scale, while adding a bit of style.
Now you can see why I chose a straight leg jean; it’s because of the shoes. If a boot leg were chosen, the low profile kicks would be lost in the wide pant opening. So the key is to match your leg opening of your pants with the shoes that you are wearing. With these straight leg jeans, just enough of the sneaker should show to create a nice silhouette.
Bottom Line
Shirt: $60
Jeans: $96
Shoes: $65
Total: $221
Under budget!
Sep
10
2009
The previous parts of this series tackled a casual night out, followed by a slightly dressier occasion. Today will be selecting an outfit for a trendy club/lounge or a nice restaurant.
Here is your chance to show a little bit of your style. Previously, it’s been a bit more subtle, yet the outfits maintained a good sense of quality style. Now, under the right type of occasion, you can (and should) dress it up.
That may sound dramatic, especially after viewing the outfit, but the idea is to break out of your normal mode of dressing down for an occasion, and instead rise to the occasion. The outfit is still subtle, but it’s stylish in the pieces selected and the fit of it all.
To the outfit…
Vest
The order is a bit different this time, as I’m starting with a top. We’re going with a vest, because vests are just flat out cool. They look good on just about any body type. The key, as usual, is to ensure that it fits. This is particularly important with a vest – if it looks boxy and not form-fitting then you’ve completely lost all the effect you would have gained.
Most vests (as is the one below) have a silk backing, which isn’t difficult for a tailor to take in. So, make sure it fits in the shoulders, and then (if need be) take it into a tailor to get the torso cinched in.
This vest is just a medium grey in color with a subtle pattern to the wool.
As with all vests, do not button the last button.
Pants
I’m going with dress trousers here. No more jeans (though, this entire outfit could go with an exceptionally good looking pair of jeans). This was a tough choice, so I broke it down into two options.
The first choice is a navy blue pinstripe pant. It’s my first choice because of the color coordination with the vest: the deep navy, and the light grey should go very well together. Also, I think the pinstripe will add an extra dash of style to the the outfit. However, I’m aware that some may feel put off by the pinstripe, but it the trousers have only a subtle stripe, which helps take away some of the showiness.
An alternative would be to go with the pants below. They’re a standard dark charcoal suit trousers. I’d prefer a slightly better fit (i.e. slimmer), but it’ll have to do. I chose dark charcoal again to contrast with the medium/light of the vest. The dark grey of the trousers should match very well with the grey of the vest.
The contrast is important so it doesn’t look like you came from wearing a 3-piece suit. This is not to say that 3-piece suits are bad, because I love them. The thing is that if you look like you’re wearing a 3-piece, you might as well be wearing one. With this outfit, nobody thinks you just took your suit jacket off and untied your tie. It appears deliberately stylish.
Shirt
To balance the contrasting shades and patterns of the vest and the trousers, I selected a solid dress shirt in a neutral color (though I kept the color in the same general family: blues & greys). The shirt should just be there. Not contributing too much other than a clean backdrop for the rest of the outfit.
Since your vest is form fitting, it’s doubly important that your shirt be as well. If the shirt doesn’t fit as well as your vest you’ll get bunching of the shirt under the vest. Take special notice of the armholes of the vest, because this is the most likely area where you’ll run into trouble.
Shoes
The shoes must of course match the occasion. So, a dressier shoe was chosen to complement the sleek and modern outfit. A longer nose, and a thin sole (though I wish it were slightly thinner), helps to tie together the entire outfit. It’s cool, clean, and stylish.
Bottom Line
Vest: $99
Pants: $150
Shirt: $80
Shoes: $140
Total: $469.
Phew…way off budget. However, you’ll have a fantastic outfit whose individual pieces are highly versatile and interchangeable.
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