Power Jeans.

Reader Ward clued me in on this article from the Wall Street Journal about the acceptability of jeans in previously unlikely places, like the White House.

It’s an interesting read though don’t form any conclusions based on the pictures. Photos of Nicolas Sarkozy in stone washed Levi’s, Medvedev in decent jeans but an ill-fitting sport coat (described as “fine” within the article), and Obama in dad jeans all send the wrong message. It appears as though whomever chose the photos didn’t bother to read the actual article.

I found this part interesting regarding the acceptability of jeans, and the shunning of a typical suit, for a job interview:

We have Steve Jobs to thank for today’s power jeans. His uniform of Levi’s 501s and a black turtleneck was synonymous with innovation in the ’90s; now, in the tech world, dressy pants can be viewed with suspicion. “When someone shows up to an interview or meeting in anything other than jeans, it shows inexperience and a lack of confidence,” says Andrew Dumont, vice president of marketing for text-messaging company Tatango.

Though jeans may be commonplace in a variety of work places, the author rightly points to this mantra for judging their acceptability:

Power jeans may best be left to the executives in mixed-rank groups. Being a junior person wearing jeans in a room full of pinstripes could spell “youthful blunder.” Perhaps the best rule is that of the high-priced boutique: If you have to ask, you can’t afford to wear them.

PG has always supported the notion that a pair of clean, slim, and dark modern jeans are suitable for a wide range of occasions. Though, truthfully I’ve never thought of it as a “power” item, perhaps I was wrong.

Steal This Look.

A button down under a sweater is one of my favorite looks for fall. Done right, it looks clean and put together, yet not overly preppy. The layering allows you to combine different colors, textures, and patterns to put together a very unique outfit.

The key is of course in the individual pieces, and how they work together. To keep the look modern you want to keep the sweater from being too bulky, and you want to make sure the proportions are right. Casual occasion? It’s OK to keep the button down untucked (as long as the shirt is hemmed and not too long). Formal? Not so much.

Typically the go-to move is to pair a solid shirt with a solid sweater. Nothing wrong with that at all. But, switch it up and play with all the possible combinations of stripes, patterns and solids for both the button down and sweater.

Looking at the new offerings by JCrew, I was stunned with how good plaid/check looks under their sweaters. It’s a very cool and modern look. To emulate this look, just ensure that everything that you have on is suitably modern.

Things to keep in mind when scrolling through the photos (I’ll let the images do the talking):

– Notice the proportion of the shirt hem (the bottom of the shirt) with respect to the length of each sweater.

– Notice the color choices. The cool thing with this look is that you can pretty much put any plaid shirt under any sweater. But, in case you want more structure just follow their lead as to what looks good:
– blues and greys
– blues and blues
– greys and deep reds
– greys and blacks

– This look is versatile. Each outfit can be dressed up with some nice chinos/dark jeans, or dressed down with a worn pair of jeans.

Photo credit: JCrew.

Photo credit: JCrew.

Photo credit: JCrew.

Photo credit: JCrew.

Photo credit: JCrew.

Photo credit: JCrew.

Wrap It Up – Scarves.

I’ve an odd confession: it’s only been in recent years that I’ve become acquainted with the scarf. Being from the South, it isn’t so much a cold weather necessity. Plus, I used to think that scarves were too effeminate, since I only saw women pull off the look successfully. But, after a little bit of experimentation (that didn’t involve tequila), I’ve decided that scarves are Normal Guy acceptable.

Scarves get the seal of approval because as a removable accessory, you can branch out and add a little bit of character into your wardrobe. Yet, unlike jewelry they retain their masculinity because they’re actually useful and not just for adornment. They’re relatively inexpensive (and are a common sale item), allowing you to purchase more than one and cycle based on outfit/occasion.

Pulling off a scarf is best when it looks thrown on. So, there’s no reason to over think it.

What to Wear

There are two ways you can go with the color and pattern of a scarf, and it really depends on the occasion and the outfit. You can blend it in (typically best for dressier occasions), or you can make a bit of a statement by adding a hint of color. I’d never advocate going too over the top (nothing that glitters), but having a punch of Fall/Winter color can be a good thing.

I tend to go with solids, since I don’t want anything really loud. I let the color combined with the rest of my outfit add the necessary style. Plus, they’re really easy. You can throw virtually any color scarf on with any casual outfit.

Here’s a couple of cool solid scarves that come in a variety of colors.

Photo credit: Gap.

Photo credit: Martin+OSA.

If you’re going to go with a pattern, why not branch out beyond that of the boring Burberry plaid? Go with some cool stripes (I prefer horizontal stripes because they’re shorter) with bright fall colors, or mix it up with a casual outfit with something like a buffalo plaid. Just don’t go overboard.

Photo credit: Gap.

Photo credit: Urban Outfitters.

Photo credit: JCrew.

How to Wear It

I’m in the camp that you shouldn’t tie it around your neck. Often times, it looks too clunky or feminine. I’ve found this especially true if the scarf is particular thick or short.

Thick, it looks like you’ve got a boa constrictor around your neck. Like this dude.

Photo credit: Urban Outfitters.

And if it’s too short it just looks dorky if not worn beneath a coat.

Photo credit: Target.

Incidentally, I’m not sure why this guy is wearing a scarf with a tshirt. Needless to say, do not emulate this look.

My preferred method is to either have it around my neck without it tied or treat it like a garbage bag tie and just twist it once or twice. This gets around both issues: looking too bulky around your neck and the shortness of the scarf.

What to Wear it With

If you’ve got a scarf on, you probably have a jacket, so twist/wrap it and tuck it inside your jacket. As long as the rest of your outfit is suitably modern, the scarf will be a great addition. A little more caution should be taken if you’re not wearing a jacket, as the look can be a little bit more stylistically advanced (there’s just something about the look that is difficult to pull off for a guy).

Sew Useful.

Commenter jc brought up a good point about the importance of a guy knowing how to sew on a button. At first I thought “I’m a man, I don’t sew. I kill things. With my fists.” Then I realized that it’s stupid to pay somebody to sew on a button when it’s a perfectly easy task for any guy to accomplish.

Just FYI: you will run into this problem frequently. I’ve noticed that the buttons on jackets and sport coats tend to fall off more often than any other article of clothing. And it’s always at an inconvenient time.

So, here’s your chance to channel your inner seamstress and learn how to get it done. This video clearly and quickly shows how to sew on a button (now I know what that flat metal thing is in the sewing kit I jacked from a hotel). I was amazed on how to properly tie the thread off. I had no idea.

My video uploading isn’t working, so here’s the link.

Fall Jackets + Sale.

Now that the weather in the South has finally turned towards Fall, it’s time to gear up for the best season(s) for guys to dress: Fall & Winter. The key, as mentioned before, is layering. Now that we don’t have to worry about pit sweat (yum) when we put on something more substantial than a tank top and flip-flops, we can pile on the coolness.

I was going to gradually build up the layering, from the inside layer out, but I got this sale in my inbox so I decided to go with an outside in approach.

Needless to say, your jacket is super important, as it is the piece that is most immediately evident. A mistake I commonly see guys make is to treat the jacket as a utility piece, one they throw on as a necessity and more often as an afterthought. This is the case even if they’ve got a nice outfit on underneath.

But, you have to pay attention to every detail. Your outerwear, like your shoes, are no exception.

The key is to not look billowy or bulky. As a disclaimer, this advice is for the Fall season for those locales where you actually have a Winter, and for Texans/Southerners where we really only have a Fall. This is because I know when it gets butt-freezing cold, you need to wear a topcoat and/or something with some serious down or fluff to it. But when it’s in the 40s/50s it’s OK to get by with sturdy outerwear and some layers.

Back to not looking like the Michelin Man. This will be difficult since PG espouses both layers and keeping a slim profile. However, it isn’t impossible. If the rest of your outfit is slim (shirt, sweater, undershirt), then putting a nice jacket on over it won’t add to the bulk. This is provided that the jacket has a modern cut. Generally, these coats allow for added bulk, but still maintain modern contours.

I’ve said this before, but it’s worth reiterating. NO jackets with elastic bands. I was going to say unless you’re hitting the links, but even that isn’t acceptable.

A word on the fit: the closest thing that I’ve highlighted are suits and sport coats. Now, the rules are similar, there’s just more leeway. By now you should know to shun any type of clothing (even an overcoat) that is baggy and drapes on your body. That’s easy. I think the most common mistake with jackets are the sleeves being too long. You need not show 0.5″ of cuff, but you don’t want the sleeves to be hitting your knuckles. Again, your tailor can correct for this.

To all you frugal readers out there: go ahead and invest a decent amount of money in a couple good quality jackets (this means more than you’re typically comfortable with). The reason is that quality, timelessly stylish coats last, so the coin you drop on them now will pay off for a few seasons to come.

So, to truly start us off on the Fall season, here’s a great sale from M+O: 50% off outerwear, but it’s only for this weekend. Below are those that are PG-approved.

Prices below are sale prices.

Wool Utility Blazer ($110)

A more casual take on the wool blazer. It has a nice modern, slim silhouette, yet keeps it simple and non-fussy (it has zippers). The perfect missing link towards the sport coat and jeans look for those slightly skittish of taking that leap. It will feel like a normal wool coat, but it has a very clean and stylish look to it. And it has functional buttons at the cuffs! Something typically only higher-end coats have.

Photo credit: M+O.

Twill Military Blazer ($95)

Another cool take on the typical blazer. This is made from cotton as opposed to wool, and has military-inspired pockets. This is more blazer-like than the previous jacket, but still looks at home with modern jeans.

Photo credit: M+O.

Wool Military Blazer ($110)

The same cut as the blazer above, in a herringbone pattern wool. This means it will probably be a bit warmer, and gives off the cool traditional/professorial vibe that some (me) like.

Photo credit: M+O.

Glen Plaid Cotton Blazer ($90)

This is a cool blazer, though I’m not sure it would be suitable in most places for Fall. It would have to be an unusually mild day in most places to wear this alone. It’s cotton and not fully lined, so it won’t provide too much by way of protection against the cold. Nonetheless, it’s a nice jacket in a cool pattern.

Photo credit: M+O.

Twill Field Jacket ($60)

The most casual jacket in this list, but it doesn’t mean it’s bland. It’s got a nice fitted look to it, that will add style to any simple outfit.

Photo credit: M+O.

Down to Business Part I.

Again, muchos apologies for the intermittent posting, but I’ll strive to continue to keep up a few posts a week while I balance my day job, drinking, drama, and darts.

It’s much belated, but I’ll begin once again to highlight particular outfit ideas. Rather than for going out, these will be targeted for wearing to work so that we don’t run into the problems that I recently outlined .

The rules are the same as for the previous posts: all the pieces are from the same mass market retailer and I’ll work within a budget. Let’s extend it to $300 since I was over budget virtually every outfit.

The first outfit will be the most casual of business casual. A place of work where wearing chinos is perfectly acceptable, and wearing dress trousers and a tie would be seen as a tad odd.

Pants
As mentioned before, we’re going to update your khakis, both in the fit and the color. I’ve chosen a nice pair of grey flat front chinos that are clean and very stylish. The unique color will help to get you out of the khaki rut, while the fit brings your look up to date. Reviewing the fit rules for pants: flat front and precise fitting are the biggies. These come in several different colors, but I like grey the best. It’s different and more modern.

The image makes it look like the pants are a little bit short, so I’d go with a longer inseam and just get it hemmed.

Photo credit: JCrew.

Shirt
Now, finding a shirt that matches, and isn’t blue, is a bit tougher. I’ll admit that blue would work very well with the chinos selected above (blue and grey go well together), but instead I chose a grey and white striped dress shirt. I know from the image that the shirt by itself looks very muted and sort of bland. But, the key is to imagine it as a piece in the rest of the outfit.

The rich grey color of the chinos will help to bring out the positive qualities of the shirt. Also, we’re keeping it in the same color family which is modern and cool. The stripes add a bit more style than the typical solid dress shirts, while keeping everything professional. And, we’ve avoided blue completely.

Just because you’re not going out, doesn’t mean you can ignore the fit rules. This shirt is cut slimmer to avoid the bagginess of most office shirts. This is a good thing. Embrace it.

Photo credit: JCrew.

Shoes
I’ve mentioned this previously, but JCrew’s Fall shoe offering is a bit sparse on the dressier shoes. But, that’s OK, because office wear should be slightly muted stylistically. Regardless, we can fall back on our (my) favorite shoe the wingtip. The wingtip is a heftier shoe that will anchor the entire outfit.
Here is a brown version of their wingtip (it comes in black). Don’t let the grey of the pants and shirt frighten you away from wearing brown. The contrast of the grey with the deep brown is very stylish. You can get a bit of a hint from the photo of the pants above, as the model has on a (lighter/weirder) shade of brown, yet it still looks great.

Photo credit: JCrew.

Bottom Line
Pants: $60
Shirt: $55
Shoes: $170

Total: $285

Not bad for an entire outfit. This of course is just an example of what you can do. Swapping out the shirt (while keeping the same pants) will give the outfit a completely different look (yes, you can go with blue, just go with a different hue than light blue). Also, you can opt for a patterned shirt to mix it up a bit.

You may be thinking that this outfit is startling similar to some of the other outfits that I’ve highlighted for going out. You’re right. Since this is the most casual, it will be very similar to previous outfits. However, you’ll find that even the dressier outfits bear more than a little resemblance to outfits I’ve selected for going out. This is because the fundamental rules typically don’t change from occasion to occasion. Things that do change are the details. For instance having your shirt pressed, choosing more muted fabrics and colors, and wearing polished shoes. Cumulatively, these subtle changes will completely alter the look of the outfit.