Kick It. Tasty Groove Optional.

I know that for going out or weekend wear that it’s far easier to throw on your trusty sneakers or flip flops (in the warmer months), than it is to find something new. But, just like you’ve been attempting to convince your girlfriend, it’s good to broaden your horizons.

I’ve already mentioned wingtips, and cool boots, so here are just a few shoes for Fall that are != (not equal to) flip flops or sneakers and won’t break the bank.

Loafers

Drivers are classic shoes that are still very much in style now. The low profile is cool and they’re very comfortable.

Photo credit: JCrew.

Topsiders have become hugely popular within the past 16-18 months, and they only look cooler once they’ve been broken in.

Photo credit: Sperry.

Boots

Desert boots have been mentioned several times by PG, and that’s because they’re hugely in style right now. These are the originals.

Photo credit: Clarks.

Cool twist on the above.

Photo credit: Clarks.

Though my favorite pair of boots are from Red Wings, I’m not a fan of everything from JCrew’s recent collaboration with them. But these are rugged, without screaming poser.

Photo credit: JCrew.

Banana’s take on the Chelsea boot that come in both brown & black. The dressiest among the bunch.

Photo credit: Banana Republic.

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Pull It Off: Sport Coat & Jeans.

As Fall approaches (ever so slooooowly for us Texans), it’s time to look forward to the beginning of the most fun time for men’s style. Why? Because guys sweat, which means the amount of clothes that we can wear, and not melt, is exceedingly small. Whereas, once the temperature begins to drop slightly, we can don any number of stylish articles, which are then made linearly more awesome via the phenomenon known as layering.

The first, and easiest look, is a sport coat and jeans. This has gained huge traction in the past several years, and as a result has seen a correspondingly large increase in the amount of people abusing the style.

As with wingtips, what makes this look cool is the clashing of styles: formal and casual. It’s an easy outfit to those dipping their toes in the style pool, because you’re still wearing jeans, except you’re just throwing a coat on over it. The dividends are huge, but so too is the potential for failure.

I mention this now because stores are beginning to roll out their Fall lines, regardless of what the thermometer may say outside your window, so it’s time to get prepared for your first Fall season of dressing well.

Fit
The mistake people have is treating the sport coat as just another jacket/coat. But, even though you’re wearing it with jeans, it shouldn’t just hang or drape on you. So, review the fit rules here. This is a modern look, make sure you have a modern fit; the highlights (all of which can be handled by a quality tailor):

– Make sure it fits precisely regardless of your body type, that most likely means taking it in around the torso.
– The shoulder seams should end when your shoulders end. Not before or after.
– Make sure the sleeves aren’t too long, they shouldn’t extend to your knuckles. You want some cuff to show (0.25″-0.5″)
– Shorter at the waist (stand with your hands at your side, cup your palms, the coat should sit inside your cupped hands). This is a biggie, I’d go shorter here than you’re used to because it’s consistent with the trend.

#1 below is a great fitting corduroy sport coat. The fabric makes it casual, but the way it fits, and the pairing with dark jeans (see below), makes it cool enough for going out.

1.

Photo credit: JCrew.

Your Bottom Half
Do NOT neglect what you are wearing below the coat. This could be tied for the biggest mistake when trying this look. As this is a modern style, your jeans should reflect this. So it is even more important that you not wear them with baggy or ill-fitting jeans, but rather pair them with your newly updated pants. You do not want to look like #2. Pay attention as your scroll down through the photo and notice how the jeans, at the last moment, kill the whole outfit.

2.

Photo credit: Gap.

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Very Cool Laptop Sleeve.

Here’s a super sweet laptop sleeve I saw over at Design Milk. I’ve seen more designers use wool/felt in their sleeves, with this one being one of the coolest.

It’s simple, modern and masculine. A great departure from the typical (black) nylon sleeves.

Photo credit: Byrd & Belle.

M+O Shop By Outfit: Fail.

In my inbox yesterday was Martin+OSA’s new Fall Shop by Outfit offering, and I thought *great* some new clothes to let the reader in on. Not so.

Most online shops have a similar feature of showcasing outfits, but it should be utilized more because frankly most guys are lazy. Especially when it comes to buying clothes. All they have to do is show you attractive complete ensembles, whereupon you can click and buy the entire outfit or individual pieces without thinking. It’s simple and easy.

While the idea is fantastic, it’s really predicated upon the clothing store actually showing you attractive outfits. The four particular outfits for men from M+O just look awful (while we’re at it, so does the women’s line). Which is odd, because I usually like the stuff that they carry. All this does is either a) confuse guys as to what looks good or b) perpetuates men dressing poorly.

So, I’ll highlight what makes these outfits fail, things that may be good, and a takeaway message. This also marks a gradual shift in PG, as we’ve covered most of the basic Fit Rules, so instead I’ll focus on more of the specifics regarding style and putting it all together.

1.

Photo credit: Martin+OSA.

The Good
– Chambray shirt: these are a lightweight cotton shirt, that wrinkle well; very workwear-esque
– Sportcoat with jeans is a great look

The Bad
– The wash of the black jeans is not stylish; it’s more ’90s.
– The fit of the jeans is awkward: too high in the waist, too low in the crotch.
– Rolled up sport coat sleeves.
– The shoes in the outfit aren’t the shoes they’re selling.
– Tucked in shirt with jeans, and no belt.

Takeaway Lesson
– Buy a chambray shirt (you can get them at authentic workwear stores like Tractor Supply Company or Western Warehouse; look for the Wrangler ones). You can pair it with dark going out jeans, or worn in jeans. Don’t wear it with sneakers.
– If you’re going with the sportcoat and jeans look, make sure you keep the bottom half of your outfit clean and up to date.
– It’s OK to wear black jeans, make sure they fit better than this pair, with a wash that’s darker.

2.

Photo credit: Martin+OSA.

The Good
– Sweater vest: a little nerd is good.
– The general feel of the outfit is very laidback cool, something that most guys strive for; it’s the combination of the sweater vest, worn in jeans, and cool distressed leather shoes.

The Bad
– Untucked shirt under a cardigan sweater vest looks sloppy. If it were a regular vest (no buttons), you could do the untucked look.
– This particular sweater vest is just plain ugly: stick to solids or something simple like thin horizontal stripes.
– If you’re going to roll your jeans, first think twice about it. If you still want to, then do it with a slimmer pair than this.
– The shoes on the model are way cooler than the ones they’re selling.

Takeaway Lesson
– This outfit would be perfectly acceptable, if they had a more attractive sweater vest, or made the top cleaner with respect to the more worn in bottoms

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Embrace the Wingtip.

No longer relegated to a banker’s office, the wingtip (AKA brogue) has rapidly become a very cool shoe to own, for both work and play. But to pull this look off you have to purchase the updated version of the classic shoe (look for elongated tips and thin soles) and know what to wear with them.

What makes wingtips great is the juxtaposition of style. The rest of your outfit (or the majority at least) should have a modern look and fit to it, with the traditional roots of the shoes injecting a dash of character into the entire outfit.

I have a great pair from J&M (they no longer sell them), that I wear with everything. They’re made out of antiquey, burnished leather, so there’s a very masculine old school feel. When coupled with a modern outfit, it’s a great statement because it’s so unexpected.

I typically like going with a brown, slightly distressed shoe, because it’s not as buttoned-up as a pair of black ‘tips. And distressed black is more difficult to pull off without looking slobby.

Wear any of these shoes with a pair of dark, modern jeans, and a perfectly-fitted shirt for a great going out outfit. Or for a more dressy occasion, substitute the denim for a slim pair of trousers.

Photo credit: Aldo.

Photo credit: Cole Haan.

Photo credit: Nieman Marcus.

Photo credit: Timerland.

Photo credit: Paul Smith.

Fit Lesson 7: Ties.

If you couldn’t tell I love ties; there’s just something about them. Whether paired with jeans or a suit, I love the contrast that that little bit of color affords. It’s arguably the most masculine article of clothing you can wear regularly (spurs don’t count). And as a man’s style should be generally subtle, the tie offers that one bit of room for artistic liberty.

There are two main categories with regard to knowing how to wear a tie: width and type of fabric. Outlined below are the fit rules for ties, highlighting specific rules for occasion and body type.

Width
Ties have been shrinking recently, a trend I wholeheartedly embrace. A normal tie width is approximately 3.0″ to 3.75″ at its widest point, whereas “skinny” ties, can range from 2.75″ to less.

The skinny tie look is great when executed properly and works for both formal and casual situations. I’m a big fan of wearing a slim tie with jeans, because the cut of the tie helps to distinguish it from its workwear brethren. However, for formal occasions, a thin black tie is classic and visually distinct.

The key to pulling off this look is proportion: if you’re larger an overly skinny tie can accentuate your size. That’s not to say that big dudes can’t wear skinnier ties, you just have to play with tie width as well as shirt color (darker is slimming) to see how it plays out. Another option is to opt for something slimmer than traditional, but not skinny, remember it’s all about proportion. Meaning, go for the updated 3.0-3.5″ ties that mass market brands like JCrew are beginning to sell.

That’s not to say that trim/athleticly built guys can go as skinny as they want. Wearing a tie less than 2″ should be saved for those attempting to make a style statement, as it really doesn’t look good. Note below, Pete from Mad Men (who is a thin guy) looks awkward in a wafer thin tie.

Photo credit: A&E.

That being said, I think big and tall guys, can get away with super wide ties. Something that some Italians tend to favor. In this case, I think it punctuates a larger guys build, rather than attempting to hide from it. These ties can be almost 4″ wide. But keep in mind when tying such a tie, use a full windsor knot in order to match the extreme tie width. This look should not be attempted for those with slight builds; you’ll end up looking like a clown.

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